How to eat your chamchi Korean style

Now there are two things in the world I love, one of which is sesame oil. It's savory scent is almost as good as, if not better than, inhaling gasoline. I admit the latter's an acquired taste. But honestly, I'll put sesame oil in just about anything - in my salad dressing, on my rice, in my noodles, while I'm frying up an egg, doong doong. (On a side note, I'm considering replacing all future 'etcetera's with the much cuter sounding Korean version, 등등 doong doong. "Hobbies? I like writing, playing tennis, dining out, doong doong. Favorite food? Ice cream, roasted hazelnuts, cheese, doong doong.") The other is fresh ahi, what I'm accustomed to calling "tuna" in Hawaii, or "chamchi" in Korean.

I went to another "chamchi jib," a restaurant specializing in tuna, a while back in Suwon. This one charged a minimum 65,000 won a head, which meant we were treated to sprinkles of fancy gold flakes over our sashimi. The entire spread easily included over a dozen additional non-tuna courses, ranging from a simple salad to fresh shrimp, and by fresh I mean alive and kickin' - one of them literally jumped off the plate.



One of the most interesting things I discovered upon this visit was the fact that the tuna platter was served with not only salted kim (also known as nori, or dried seaweed), but also three types of dippings - hot sauce, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Having eaten poke all my life, I don't know why I found this so marveling. Sesame oil and tuna, you say? No... really? Yes, really. I had noticed Koreans eating it this way before, but I guess old habit or pangs of hunger had overruled curiosity as I ignored the practice and went along with my usual face-feeding ways, sans nori and sesame oil. Still, I thought it was worth sharing - how to eat your chamchi Korean style: dip, add, wrap, and repeat. : )

Tsukiji Fish Market - From Boat to Bowl

Is it worth waking up at 5AM to watch a tuna auction, browse the market, and eat raw fish for breakfast? Of course! And I'd do it again tomorrow.









Much better footage can be found on YouTube but here are my attempts (and I didn't get run over!)

Workers flying by with tuna in tow, and the auction going on in the background:


Watching people at work alongside the dozens of flash frozen tuna fish just off the boat:

Jin Sho - a taste of Nobu on the Peninsula?

I've quickly become a fan of one of Onni's recent sushi finds in Palo Alto. I think she's becoming a regular and I understand why. Jin Sho, opened just under a year ago by two Nobu alums, occupies a modest space while serving up fresh, quality fish. Check out Sushi Monster's review on Chowhound if you're curious for details. Otherwise, just enjoy the pictures and salivate. ^^

Onni (w/Sake Nigiri, Sawara Nigiri, and Hamachi Sashimi)


Corn Tempura with Matcha Salt


White Fish Marinated w/Yuzu Soy, Topped w/Hot Oil


White Tuna and Sake Sashimi


Spicy Tuna Roll

Hilton - Palm Court Buffet

Aunty Mina's back in town! We caught up back at the Hilton over the hotel's usual buffet spread, only this time it was at the Palm Court. Hotels with big pretty lobbies and foreign businessmen in suits remind me of home. ^^

Told in photos because a picture is worth a thousand words I'm lazy.



Plate #1


Plate #2


Plate #3


This does not include all of our special comp dishes and drinks. (It pays to know the staff. ^^) I need to go on a diet.

Chamchi...welcome to the world of Korean tuna

The world of all-you-can-eat chamchi restaurants in Korea is one like no other. Maybe I've been spoiled. I mean, I've been graced with the presence of the one and only Yoshio, possibly the funniest sushi man in the world, ever since I could walk. Even in Boston, we managed to find a few decent places, one in particular that imports their fish fresh from Japan, and in New York and San Francisco - well, good sushi isn't exactly hard to find, now is it?



So, I didn't really know what to expect in Seoul. At first, I was a little thrown off by the dime a dozen chamchi restaurant concept...mostly, that a restaurant would specialize in one kind of fish, and the fact that it's served nearly frozen. But I have to tell you, I do love tuna, and this time around, it wasn't half bad, judging by the three trays of sashimi that were consumed between the two of us. My favorite was the teriyaki grilled ahi nigiri. I just love it when things melt in your mouth!








And just when you thought my appetite couldn't get any better... what better than pumpkin cheesecake ice cream (bring on the fall flavors!) in a waffle cone to top it off?



I am seriously not going to be able to fit into that bridesmaid dress.

Donburi

On some days, a nice bowl of donburi kicks bibimbap's you know what.

Around Ichon-dong: Mitaniya restaurant, the National Museum of Korea, and K-drama filming

Ichon-dong (이촌동) may be deemed Seoul's "Little Tokyo," but the name's a bit deceiving. Sure, there's a Japanese mini-mart or two, and even a few signs in Hiragana, but if you're really expecting, well, a smaller version of Tokyo, you won't find it here (as I discovered my first time around.) Rather, Ichon-dong is quiet, filled with residential high rises and a few smart looking cafes. And if you take a close enough look, you're bound to find some good eats. After hearing about Mitaniya (02-797-4060), a small Japanese restaurant in the basement of the Samik Shopping Mall, I went with 4 other pals (from Japan) to find it, and see if it'd pass the test.



I have to say, they were quite pleased upon receiving the menu alone, seeing that it was 4 pages long, all in Japanese (of course, with Korean descriptions). It took us a while to figure out a plan, but as soon as the neighboring table's plates arrived, everyone confirmed their decision - the curry and tonkatsu looked, smelled - and we soon discovered - tasted pretty damn good. (I, on the other hand, opted for the kitsune udon, which was perfectly cooked in a mild, refreshing broth.) Overall, Mitaniya gets a thumbs up - a satisfactory, no-frills place to satiate your non-Koreanized, Japanese meal needs.

Besides "Little Tokyo," Ichon-dong is also home to the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관). Personally, it's not my favorite museum, but I did enjoy the Pensive Bodhisattva sculpture, along with a few of the fine art pieces. The museum itself is located on beautiful grounds, which would be a perfect setting for a summer picnic (on a cool day).



I had the opportunity to make my very own seal/stamp at the museum's educational center - and it's harder than it looks! Unfortunately, writing my last name in Kanji was too complex a task (you have to carve everything with a blade backwards!) so I finally settled with my Korean-sided name using Hangul. It's read in the following order: top right - bottom right - top left - bottom left corners.



Finally, what better way to cap off a trip to Ichon-dong than to see a K-drama filming!



To be completely honest, I had no idea what was going on, and had to be informed that they were shooting a scene for 밤이면 밤마다, a drama that's currently airing in Korea. Had I known (about 10 seconds prior) it was Lee Dong-geon (이동건) in that car (Ono says he saw him), I wouldn't have walked by so quickly and nonchalantly! ㅠㅠ We debated for a few seconds whether to go take a few steps backward but decided to let the crew have their peace.



Here's the MBC truck that was parked a few meters behind...



Is it just me, or is it a little odd to advertise your drama while on location? Maybe it stirs up interest from passersby? It did for me - I'm tuning in! ^^;;

How to gain 6 lbs in one week - Pt 1/2

As I mentioned in a previous post, MC reported that he gained 6 lbs from his one week trip to Korea. While this may seem a tad extreme to most, with the right how-to guide (provided below), it's not only possible, it's actually quite easy!

1) Take a trip to Sanchon (산촌) in Insadong (인사동) for some wonderful temple-inspired vegetarian eats. Grab a seat on the floor and dig into 20+ fresh and naturally seasoned dishes. The experience alone is worth it - but be sure to bring your appetite.



#2) Stir fry some chicken (닭갈비), then make some bokkum bap (볶음밥) not because you're hungry but just because you can (and everybody else does it). If you have easy access to LA/NY, feel free to skip over the Korean fried chicken - while amazingly delicious in Korea, Kyochon in the US is just as yummy (the power of franchising!) - and opt for some tasty jjim dak (찜닭) or bul dak (불닭). Both pack enough spice to keep you glued to your water bottle (part of the six lbs will undoubtedly be water weight).



#3) Korean BBQ. This place in Apgujeong (압구정) is quite popular, but unfortunately I don't know what it's called (I know, I know, must work on this). Just look for a restaurant with a crowd and waiting list, packed somewhere within the "Rodeo Drive" area, and I'm sure you'll be on your way to some delicious (albeit a bit $$) BBQed beef. ^^;;



#4) Grab some cheap take-out from one of the 24/7 kimbap (김밥) stores with the bright orange signs, and have an indoor picnic!



#5) If you're feeling a bit more fancy, try some "Korean fusion" at Gaon (가온) in Apgujeong (located near all the other ambiance-first eateries around Dosan Park). MC and I personally thought it was over-rated and under-creative, but I'd give it another shot just because I enjoyed the modern, serene atmosphere - very opposite of what you'd normally find in a regular shikdang. Here's an excerpt from the Financial Times' "How to Spend It" (October) -

The Gaon is across the street from Gorilla [in the Kitchen] and serves a great contemporary take on traditional Korean dishes. Opt for a set menu and the kitchen will roll out dish upon dish of the freshest tasting Korean fare: pan-fried pumpkin and acorn jelly; steamed abalone; grilled pork in red pepper paste... And, of course, kimchi - not so much a national dish as a national treasure.

The Gaon may serve kimchi, but the presentation is anything but traditional. The restaurant, with its colourful linear acrylics and tightly stacked paper walls, has been designed by avant-garde architects Super Potato, also responsible for the Park Hyatt opposite the Co-Ex Centre in Gangnam-gu.

#6) For the food-curious at heart, bulgogi sandwiches, bulgogi flavored KFC, rice burgers, and other random finds off the street may be worth indulging in... well, not really, but it's just one of those things you have to experience for yourself to realize, "Eh. I could've lived without it but I guess it was fun."



#7) If you really want "fast food" as in burgers and fries, check out Kraze Burgers. MC placed it at a very respectable No. 2 on his "best casual dining burger joints" list, squeezed between the No. 1 ranked B.Good (Boston) and No. 3 Kua'aina (Hawaii).



#8) If you need a break from jjigaes and rice, why not try a Korean-made pizza? Loaded with all kinds of unimaginable crap, I mean toppings, it's every non-traditionalist's dream (and likely every Italian's nightmare). You might start off with Mr. Pizza (guys, don't be turned off by their "love for women" campaign) - just don't order the "Sweety Pizza" (pictured below) - it's definitely not their shining star. In fact, I think they should just take it off the menu.



#9) MC's a huge fan of omurice, so of course we made a special visit to Omuto Tomato. While not particularly fantabulous in the taste department, there are so many choices on the menu that you'll feel compelled to go back just to try them all! (According to MC.) A cream sauce selection is probably your best bet.



Part 2 coming up!